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[Oversea] Cat Tien NP, Vietnam 越南吉仙國家公園

Cat Tien NP, Vietnam 越南吉仙國家公園

十一月尾 (27-29號)到過這國家公園,逗留三日兩夜約48小時。吉仙國家公園有特別鳥種綠孔雀(Green Peafowl), 戴氏鷴 (Siamese Fireback), 眼斑孔雀雉(Germain’s Peacock Pheasant), 斑腹八色鶇 (Bar-bellied Pitta) 及藍背八色鶇(Blue-rumped Pitta)。可惜以上雀鳥我一隻也沒在逗留期間見過。入寶山空手回? 不是,我自己非常享受這次旅程,享受讓雀鳥找我的感覺 (今次也不用做天煞孤星)。

平時自己不喜寫海外觀鳥報告,一來拍烏蠅居多,二來網上有很多觀鳥報告。其次是反差大,2012年11月同另一天煞孤星壞蛋七號去泰國拷艾國家公園(Khao Yai NP) 睇雀,三日行程悶程居多。但今次卻罕有地被雀鳥包圍,所以想分享今次所見所聞 (即係報喜不報憂) 。

交通
吉仙國家公園近胡志明市,今次用公共交通工具,車程約五小時,到達方法如下

(1)        從胡志明市第一區乘往大叻(Dalat) 巴士,同司機講你去吉仙。在中途站下車,車程約四小時。票價約港紙一百五十元。巴士係冷氣巴,乘客多為鬼佬,非常安全舒適。可在位於第一區的旅行社singh café 購票及上車 (位置可在google或旅遊書Lonely Planet找到)。巴士最早出發時間為七點半,之後好似每一至兩小時一班。
(2)        從中途站到國家公園要乘電單車的士 (約40分鐘)。中途站其實是一間士多,有位亞叔會同你議價,我議價力較低,這程花了20萬盾,約百餘元港紙

因回程要趕去胡志明市機場,所以與一對荷蘭情侶共乘包車,車資要85美元,由兩家人平分。

住宿
到達國家公園已是下午一時。之前電單車叔叔已二話不說車了我去公園外的旅館 bamboo lodge。其實這旅館我已預先訂了,因為前天託本地人打電話問國家公園內的旅館住宿狀况時,對方竟話「冇! 」。所以預先book定。但之後到達國家公園後,管理人員說園內旅館仍有很多房。無論如何,在上電單車前,鳥友應同司機表示自己想住國家公園內或外的旅館發現。園內住宿有平貴,便的是25美元左右晚的普通旅館,貴的有差不多港紙過千蚊晚、獨立經營的forest floor lodge。

bamboo lodge距往國家公園渡船碼頭約三分鐘步行路程。住宿較簡樸但乾淨。房價是15美元一晚,包早餐。

國家公園對外交通
要到國家公園必須乘船(三分鐘),來回約港紙十元。早上六時左右開始有服務,但七時才有人售票,若想乘早船,可早一天多買船票。

水蛭 (即蜞乸)
不得不提,雖然十一月尾是旱季的開始,但仲係 超、多,蜞,乸。預防方法只有物理防治,即著蜞乸襪,還要長褲沒有任何開孔,仲要每五至十分鐘檢查全身一次。雖然有著蜞乸襪 (bamboo lodge老闆免費提供),這次旅程共有五隻蜞乸成功從我身上吸血!只因為褲有小開孔及忘記把上衣套在褲內。

第一天
在旅館吃過午餐後已是下午二時半,之後就乘船出發到國家公園。到岸後有兩條大路可揀,右手邊的一條通往樹林,左手邊的一條狀似通往稀疏林木地帶。因為已是下午,考慮到林雀在這時段較不活躍,所以選擇左手邊去稀疏林木地帶。在一處垃圾棄置地方的竹林看到黑枕王鶲 (Black-naped Monarch)及大黃冠啄木鳥 (Greater Yellownape),但太暗拍不到照片。之後沿大路行看到很多大盤尾。幾分鐘後在一處較開陽的竹林見到一隻不大怕人,可任拍照的橫斑翠鳥 (Banded Kingfisher),算是全日焦點。沿路的稀疏林木鳥況也不俗,有黑翅雀鵯 (Common Iora),黑枕黃鸝 (Black-naped Oriole),長嘴捕蛛鳥 (Little Spiderhunter),盤尾樹鵲 (Racket-tailed Treepie),灰山椒鳥 (Asy Minivet),灰燕鵙 (Ashy Woodswallow),和平鳥 (Asian Fairy Bluebird)及一群約十餘隻的黑胸蜂虎 (Chestnut-headed Bee-eater)。在較遠的樹上看到較多大雀,例如: 綠擬啄木鳥 (Lineated Barbet),栗啄木鳥 (Rufous Woodpecker),厚嘴綠鳩 (Thick-billed Pigeon) 及冠斑犀鳥 (Oriental Pied Hornbill)。行了大約四時半左右便回程,沿舊路看到一些不同的雀鳥: 三隻站在枯樹上的白頸鸛 (Woolly-necked Stork),綠皇鳩(Green Imperial Pigeon) 及一隻短尾鸚鵡 (Vernal Hanging Parrot)等。三小時的旅程看到約三十多種雀,雖然個人新紀錄不多,但近距離看到橫斑翠鳥,再加上雀鳥密度頗高,無乜冷場,算是喜出望外。回到bamboo lodge,老闆告訴有一隻大雀飛到餐廳附近的一棵樹上休息,原來是一隻綠嘴地鵑 (Green-billed Malkoha)。

第二天
第二天早上五時半起床,發現綠嘴地鵑仍在睡覺,這鳥可能有遲起床的習慣,因為在太陽出來大半小時後,其他雀鳥也已十分活躍,但牠仍然睡覺。在等待早餐時,我到旅館周邊地方碰運氣,在旅館門口對出看到全程唯一看到的藍鬚夜蜂虎 (Blue beared Bee-eater) 及金背三趾啄木鳥 (Common Flameback),還有昨天已看到的黑胸蜂虎,算是略有收獲。

七時左右乘船到國家公園,今日的旅程是踏單車 (9km平路) 再加步行五公里到鱷魚湖,來回28公里,要六、七個小時。單車可在國家公園辦事處租用,不想踏單車則可乘越野車。在樹林踏單車觀鳥算是新事,只要慢駛便可以。開始時鳥況一般,有大綠雀鵯 (Great Iora) 及黑翅雀鵯等林中常見鳥,差不多半小時後才見到東南亞低地樹林常見的白腰鵲鴝 (White-rumped Shama)。之後在一處密林中聽到懷疑是白腰鵲鴝的叫聲,但跟這鳥捉完一輪迷藏後才知道是一隻黑紅闊嘴鳥 (Black-and-red Broadbill),黑紅配搭十分清楚易認。在踏單車路段一半左右有一棵正在結果中的榕樹,吸引很多厚嘴綠鳩,冠斑犀鳥,和平鳥及在野外第一次看到的鷯哥 (Hill Myna)。

之後的旅程鳥況也很一般,較特別的是看見一隻雌性的白喉磯鶇(White-throated Rock Thrush),由於褐色斑紋顏色頗深,加上站立姿勢特別,初看上去似一隻巨型烏鶲,定下神後就認為是這種鳥。其他在踏單車路段見到的有金額葉鵯 (Golden-fronted Leafbird),及站立位置可讓人拍到相片的藍耳擬啄木鳥 (Blue-eared Barbet)。

大約十時左右到達步行路段入口,是真正的林中小徑。可能接近中午,樹林無雀可言,較易見的是常在地面活動的棕胸幽鶥 (Buff-breasted Tit Babbler)。行了一小時後到鱷魚湖觀鳥屋,這裏可留宿,但條件甚差,另好像沒有東西吃(有觀鳥報告說有東西吃) 。講番鳥況,猛禽有魚鷹 (Osprey) 及灰頭魚雕 (Grey-headed Fish Eagle) 。水鳥不太多,近觀鳥屋的湖邊有紫水雞 (Purple Swamphen),池鷺 (Chinese Pond Heron)及紫鷺 (Purple Heron),湖的另一邊有樹鴨 (Lesser Whistling Duck),肉垂麥雞 (Red-wattled Lapwing) 及銅翅水雉 (Bonze-winged Jacana)。當然還有鱷魚湖的真正主人,暹羅鱷 (Siamese Crocodile),與及一隻花了很多時間偷吃魚乾的小貓。

在觀鳥屋逗留了一小時,於下午一時回程,行了十五分鐘便看見一隻在林層下方活動,又非常近小徑的白腹黑啄木鳥 (White-bellied Woodpecker)。基本上這鳥是讓我看見,多過我主動找牠。遺憾的是這鳥有點怕人,加上大鏡放在背囊,所以拍不到照片。之後的步行及單車路段也沒有驚喜,只在末段看到白喉冠鵯 (Puff-throated Bulbul)。

回到國家公園辦事處還車已是三時許,還完車後剛到餐廳準備吃午飯時 (餐廳竟有wifi),即下起大雨,差不多有一小時。雨後到昨午去過的“左手邊小徑”碰運氣,不過無甚驚喜。黃昏在bamboo lodge跟一位遊客閒聊時見到一隻飛翔中的毛腿夜鷹 (Great-eared Nightjar),此鳥體型頗大,差不多有紅隼大小。

第三天
最後一天早上去Heaven rapids (距國家公園辦事處六公里),先段是兩公里的水泥路,之後是四公里的泥路。所看到的雀鳥跟早兩天差不多,只不過在末段看到白腹鳳鶥 (White-belled Yuhina),及一對相當易見的黑紅闊嘴鳥。十一時左右回到bamboo lodge算是這次觀鳥旅程的結束。下午乘車去胡志明市機場,之後乘夜機回港。

總結
總計看到78種鳥 (包括約十種水鳥) 。在吉仙國家公園看不到目標鳥種,對專業觀鳥者而言,肯定談不上完滿,但重拾觀鳥樂趣,算是一次快樂旅程。


[ Last edited by wcaptain at 2/01/2014 21:53 ]

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Banded Kingfisher        橫斑翠鳥




Black-naped Oriole        黑枕黃鸝


Greater Racket-tailed Drongo        大盤尾


Chestnut-headed Bee-eater        黑胸蜂虎


Woolly-necked Stork        白頸鸛


Thick-billed Pigeon        厚嘴綠鳩


Grey-eyed Bulbul        灰眼短腳鵯


Blue-eared Barbet        藍耳擬啄木鳥


Purple Swamphen        紫水雞


Green Imperial Pigeon        綠皇鳩


暹羅鱷 (Siamese Crocodile)

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The sealed road to Crocodile Lake


Trails are well marked


Non sealed road (Dirt road)


An old, giant tree


Crocodile Lake


Fried Chicken Noode. Cheap and nice, around HK$ 15-20. Wifi is available at this restaurant


The Left Hand side Road in the text


The headquarters. Also, the sleeping place if you want to stay in the park


River crossing


THe river that separates Cat Tien NP and the "mainland" Vietnam


Bamboo lodge

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Lesser Whistling Duck        樹鴨     A flock about 15 birds at distant
       
White-bellied Woodpecker        白腹黑啄木鳥        At the crocodile trail after visiting the lake in the noon. Quite close and around eye level. The bird had flown away when I tried taking photos. No luck. The only sighting

Rufous Woodpecker        栗啄木鳥        Only one sighting on the top of a tree in the open area of LHS Road

Laced Woodpecker        花腹啄木鳥        Near the Bamboo lodge

Gr Yellownape        大黃冠啄木鳥         One nr a bamboo, just after HQ along LHS Trail

Common Flameback        金背三趾啄木鳥        Near the Bamboo lodge       

Lineated Barbet        綠擬啄木鳥        Easy to see along the LHS trail. But very difficult to see them inside the forest

Blue-eared Barbet        藍耳擬啄木鳥        On top of a short roadside dead tree. Quite tame. Some photos were taken.

Oriental Pied Hornbill        冠斑犀鳥         Quite common inside the NP (both forested and open areas)

Indian Roller        棕胸佛法僧        Two to three seen at open areas

Dollarbird        佛法僧        One on a tree in Cat tien was seen fr the Bamboo lodge when I was waiting my breakfast on the last day

Common/Blue-eared Kingfisher        At the stream near Forest Floor Lodge. Just a flash. Can't tell the spp       

White-throated Kingfisher        白喉翡翠        Along the river

Pied Kingfisher        斑魚狗        Along the river

Banded Kingfisher        橫斑翠鳥        Near a bamboo, open area. Very "calm". Allowed me to take a lot of photos

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater        黑胸蜂虎        Quite easy to be seen in open areas including disturbed areas nr bamboo lodge

Blue-breared bee-eater        藍鬚夜蜂虎         Only one sighting. One bird was seen at Bamboo lodge when waiting my breakfast. Flew away when I got back and collected my camera. So no photos

Greater Coucal        褐翅鴉鵑        Heard and seen. Common in the open area

Green billed Malkoha        綠嘴地鵑        One overnighted in a tree at Bamboo lodge. Just next to the restaurant. One seen at open area of LHS road

Vernal Hanging Parrot        短尾鸚鵡        Only one sighting. A bird perched on top of a bamboo in the open area of LHS trail

Red-breasted Parakeet        緋胸鸚鵡        Common. Easy to see around the river

Asian Palm Swiftlet        棕雨燕        Along river

Great-eared Nightjar        毛腿夜鷹        A bird was seen around the Bamboo lodge when I was chating with a german lady at dusk. Very large. For me, it looks a kestrel

Thick-billed Pigeon        厚嘴綠鳩        Easy to see in open area. Quite a lot on a fruiting fig tree on the main road to crocodile lake (appro 4-5 km fr HQ)

Green Imperial Pigeon        綠皇鳩        Only seen along the LHS trail

Purple Swamphen        紫水雞       

White-breasted Waterhen        白胸苦惡鳥       

Bronze-winged Jacana        銅翅水雉        Very far away

Common Sandpiper        磯鷸        A bird was seen on the riverbank near Bamboo lodge

Red-wattled lapwing        肉垂麥雞        Two flying at distant

Osprey        魚鷹        Fishing at noon. Very active

Grey-headed Fish Eagle        灰頭魚雕        When the osprey was fishing, this eagle just took a break but changed its locations for every 15 mins.

Intermediate Egret        中白鷺       
Purple Heron        紫鷺       
Little Egret        小白鷺        Riverbank
Chinese Pond Heron        池鷺       

Woolly-necked Stork        白頸鸛        3 birds on a dead tree on the LHS trail

Black-and-red Broadbill        黑紅闊嘴鳥        Main Road about 1 km after resort. Very noisy calls first. I thought it was a shama. But turned out to be a male. A pair of both male and female (sit side by side) Seen on the heaven rapid trail on the last day

Asian Fairy Bluebird        和平鳥        Quite a lot on a fruiting fig tree on main road to crocodile lake (appro 4-5 km fr HQ)

Golden Fronted Leafbird        金額葉鵯        I suppose it is

Great Iora        大綠雀鵯         Great Iora is much bigger than Common Iora. Its bill is particular large

Common Iora        黑翅雀鵯        For me, their abundance looks like White-eyes in HK

Rachet-tailed Treepie        盤尾樹鵲        Only seen along the LHS trail

Ashy Woodswallow        灰燕鵙         Easy to see along the LHS trail.

Black-naped Oriole        黑枕黃鸝        Easy to see along the LHS trail.

Indochinese Cuckoo Shrike        灰鵑鵙       

Ashy minivet        灰山椒鳥        Easy to be seen along the LHS trail.

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo        大盤尾        Quite a lot

Bronze Drongo        小卷尾        Quite a lot

Hair-crested Drongo        髮冠卷尾        Some around open area

Ashy Drongo        灰卷尾        Open areas

Black-naped Monarch        黑枕王鶲        Quite common along the main road

Tickell's Blue Flycatcher        梯氏仙鶲       

Verditer Flycatcher        銅藍鶲        Not very common in this trip. One or two sightings

Grey-headed Flycatcher        方尾鶲        Only seen on the last day. Not very common here.

Hainan Blue Flycatcher        海南藍鶲        One or two birds along the main road

Asian Brown Flycatcher        北灰鶲        Common along the main road

White-rumped Shama        白腰鵲鴝        Only seen on the second day.

White-throated Rock thrush        白喉磯鶇        A female, road crossing. At first I thought it was a juv flycatcher (some sort of dark-sided). But it appears too big to be a flycatcher. After 3 secs, I realized it may be a female of rock thrushes. The bird had floww away when I tried taking photos. No luck. After checking OB images, it should be this species

Hill Myna        鷯哥        About 5 to 10 birds were seen on a fruiting fig tree. The only sighting

Barn Swallow        家燕        Along river

Red-rumped Swallow        金腰燕       

Grey-eyed Bulbul        灰眼短腳鵯        Common along the jetty and stores around the mainland side

Stripe throated Bulbul        紋喉鵯        their calls like Chinese Bulbul

Puff-throated Bulbul        白喉冠鵯        

Black-crested Bulbul        黑冠黃鵯        Common along the jetty and stores around the mainland side

Common Tailorbird        長尾縫葉鶯        Common along main road
Arctic Warbler        極北柳鶯       

Grey-faced Tit Babbler        灰臉紋胸鹛        Only identified after back to HK. Indicating no homework was done. Also, poor knowledge of this group

Buff-breasted Tit Babbler        棕胸幽鶥        Only seen along the crocodile trail. Very close to the forest floor

White-billed Yuhina        白腹鳳鶥        Only seen on the last day in a bird wave (iora, leafbird, racket-tailed drongo). Not very common here.

Scarlet backed Flowerpecker        朱背啄花鳥        HQ. I have to realize that I did not pay attention to flowerpeckers and sunbirds because other attractions.

Brown-throated Sunbird        褐喉花蜜鳥       
Olive-backed Sunbird        黃腹花蜜鳥       
Crimson Sunbird        黃腰太陽鳥       

Little Spiderhunter        長嘴捕蛛鳥        Very noisy guys. Always in a pair (or two birds chasing each other). Easy to see along LHS trail

Grey Wagtail        灰鶺鴒        near the overflowing section of the main road to the luxury resort
White-backed Munia        白腰文鳥       


[ Last edited by wcaptain at 2/01/2014 22:20 ]

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